Care and maintenance
How to look after oak, leather, felt, mesh and a mechanical keyboard.
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Oak surfaces
Our oak is finished in hardwax oil, which sits in the wood rather than on top of it. That means marks can be repaired locally instead of refinishing the whole top.
Day to day: a dry or barely damp cloth. Never a wet cloth, never anything containing silicone or ammonia. Re-oil once a year with any hardwax oil — sand the area lightly with 240 grit, wipe clean, apply thinly with a lint-free cloth, and leave it 12 hours.
Water rings lift with a light 320-grit sanding and a spot re-oil. Heat marks usually do too.
Vegetable-tanned leather
The Orbit mat is meant to darken. Keep it out of direct sun if you would rather it darkened evenly, and use a neutral leather balm twice a year — a pea-sized amount buffed in with a cloth.
Water spots will even out on their own within a few days. Do not use saddle soap or anything with a solvent in it.
Wool felt and PET mesh
Brush felt with a stiff dry brush along one direction. Pilling is normal on wool and comes off with a fabric shaver without damage.
Chair mesh takes a vacuum on low with a brush head. For marks, a drop of pH-neutral soap in lukewarm water on a cloth, then a clean damp cloth after. Do not soak the frame edge.
Keyboards
Pull the keycaps with the included wire puller and wash them in warm water with a drop of washing-up liquid. Dry fully — at least 12 hours — before refitting. PBT will not warp.
The board itself: a soft brush and compressed air held upright, not tilted, so no propellant condenses on the PCB. Never run a keyboard under a tap; the hot-swap sockets will corrode.
Desk mechanism
The Meridian needs no lubrication. If travel becomes uneven, run the reset: hold the down button until the desk reaches its lowest point, keep holding for a further 5 seconds until it dips and returns. That re-levels both legs.
Still stuck?
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